How strange it feels now, to see a typical image associated with those very fast and hectic lunchtime breaks…taken on an incredibly backing hot day in September 2011.
A cute little book by Andrea Bajani about one year spent in Berlin. In Fall 2013 the author hits the Autostrada and then the Autobahn with wife and daughter and lands in Berlin with an assignment to write a book about the city and its inhabitants – and mainly about its food.
Das Konzept of this book is one of a half-scientific half-bureaucratic report. The parody of italian administrative tonality adopted by Bajani, pursued by with germanic consistence and attention to detail, puts this short reportage firmly in divertissement territory. Continue reading ‘The red thread’
When I miss my Heimat, I listen to Elisa…
…luce che cade dagli occhi, sui tramonti della mia terra…
What’s better than going for a walk up to the end of the Molo Audace, having lunch with girlfriends at Malcanton, bumping into former schoolmates not met since 1986, lighting a candle in the Serbian-Orthodox Church of St.Spiridio, having coffee at Capo di Piazza and then buy books at Minerva in Via San Nicolò, in the Jewish quarter of Trieste, and then taking a train back under the watchful eye of Carlo Ghega to go back home, in Friul?
At the Martin Gropius Bau, WChUTEMAS, the Russian bauhaus. Incredible, to read the topics given by the professors to the students, and compare them with the drawings of buildings defying gravity…
In Berlin, at the Kulturbibliothek at Kulturforum there is now an exhibition on fashion in WWI: Krieg und Kleider.
WWI is a not so investigated period of fashion. We know everything about Belle Epoque and Flappers, but the gyrations of fashion during the first conflict of the XXth century are less investigated.
Propaganda played a big role: first, expanding gowns and adding frills, a sort of forced cheerfulness. Later, adopting a more plain style, in field gray and establishing by decree that black is a fashionable color. There were simply too many widows around. And they had to work, all of them. Frills were unpractical.
What is sure, it is during WWI that skirts get shorter – even if still below the knee – and this is a given. Women were no longer entravées.
The exhibition focuses on Berlin, Vienna and Paris. Of all the illustrations shown in the exhibition, some surprised me for their ability to express the Zeitgeist, well beyond the fashion aspect. Shouldn’t this croquis be exposed at Die Bruecke Museum, in between all the Kirchner?
And there are some coats which I find covetable, today!
And the influence of Matisse on the Mario Testinos and Patrick Demarcheliers of the time…?
The exhibition is small and extremely intriguing. But it is the catalogue which makes the difference, thanks to the very well documented contributions and the whole social background.
Relations between men and women were changing fast. Women for the very first time were taking care of men who were neither their patients nor their husbands. The nurse uniform – for the civilian and for the militar purposes, different skirt lenghts! – influenced fashion in the same way as the soldier’s.
Wiener Werkstaette, Constructivism start to introduce color blocking …but that’s the perfect connection to another exhibition in Berlin…WChUTEMAS.